Rob Sykes (Australia)
January 25, 2009 | Leave a Comment
Excerpt of a letter from Transfrontiers’ Guest Rob Sykes to his agent Liselle Raath of Sun Safaris.
…We reached Jos Macs without further ado, signed in with the minimum of fuss and then on to the park, sighting a pair of Giraffe just prior to entering the park. The sign just inside the entrance produced a wry smile – “Dung Beatles have right of way”. The Timbavati camp was great, all I had expected and dared hope for. The proximity to the river raised expectations of what we might see. It did not take ourselves long to feel at home and then the guides — Con and Phil — told us how to behave in the bush, what to look out for and how much there was to see. We did not realise how soon we needed this knowledge! I seem to recollect we went out in the vehicle that evening, but I do not have any real recollection of what we saw – the time shift and the long flight were catching up with me.
The intention was from that point on we would be active when the animals were active. We would rise at about 3am, have a light breakfast and then walk for about 4 hours. Then we would have real breakfast and sleep/snooze/laze about till 3pm (lunch) and then drive to where the animals were, walking whenever we saw something of interest. Supper was when we returned.
The first morning was a bit quiet, but then we began to see more and more animals. We were walking along a track fairly near camp when the guides and I heard a noise and then saw elephant quite close to us. We grouped together as instructed and watched. Unfortunately the matriach took exception to us and charged. We moved to the dry river and up the other side as planned, with one guide staying between us and the angry animal. I must admit the adrenalin was pumping somewhat! We walked back to camp, seeing a buffalo pair plus one young amongst other animals.
That night we went for sundowners, watching a pair of hippo in a dam – a really pleasant way to end the day. The following day we walked to the edge of a Mopani thicket and heard elephant in within. The guides surmised that the elephant were heading for a nearby waterhole so we did a U turn out of
the thicket and walked around to the water hole. Our group then sat in an area of bush on the opposite side if the waterhole to the Mopani thicket and waited. Soon 6 or 7 elephant arrived, with young. As we were watching the family group, another group joined them, and then a third. At one point
there was over 40 elephant (including young) at the waterhole, the nearest being some 30m away!
That evening we used the vehicles and saw some rhino in the bush. We alighted to go nearer – and were rewarded with a great view. As the rhino moved off, so did we, and saw a herd of buffalo – fairly small herd (wrong!) We approached the herd on foot and got some spectacular views before returning to the vehicle to drive to the sundowner spot, overlooking another dam. The small herd (approx 100 – 200) then came past us, down to drink.
I am sure many of these sightings were not pure coincidence, but due to the guides’ knowledge and skill.
The following day we went to Klaserie – a completely different camp. This camp overlooks a flowing river and there was a small herd of elephant on the far side. This camp was a bit more rustic, but about to be upgraded.
Again, we walked in the mornings and used the vehicles in the evening. We saw quite a few animals and birds. The second morning at Klaserie started off fairly quietly, till a lion roared some 200m away. Boots were on, cameras grabbed and we walked quickly toward the sound. The guides saw something, motioning us to stop. As we grouped together and stopped, a male lion came trotting out of the bush directly towards us. We froze, moving nothing but the shutter finger. After about 30 seconds, the lion turned on its heels and was off, to other males following. From there we went back to camp, got in the vehicle and headed past the lions and stopped on a dry river bank. Once again, the guides were right. The lions walked past us on the opposite bank, no problem. From there we saw wildebeest, kudu and the usual host of impala till the guide in the trackers chair saw some drag marks. A freshly killed waterbuck was hidden in the reeds, not a lion to be seen. We left the area with the promise to return later – and we did. The lioness’ were there, with about 6 cubs. That night the heavens opened and we did not get the chance to see the lion feed, but wow, the 5 days was an experience my son and I will never forget!
Our connection to Nelspruit arrived on time the following day and we arrived at Nelspruit airport without further ado – except wishing we were still in Klaserie! I must also point out, that Nelspruit is one of the best regional airports I have seen in the world – I mean, where else would you get double story thatched airport buildings with an atmosphere that many top restaurants would envy?
The connection from there to Cape Town, joining my mum and then to Port Elizabeth was problem free – all that I could ask for.
To the more mundane. I booked the particular game park primarily because of the camping and walking and because we could get in the week before the RSA school holidays. I did not wish to be part of a normal 8am rush hour in the city, while attempting to see animals and get a bit of peace and quiet. I did not realise that we would be the only people in the Timbervati and Klaserie reserves – It was truly great to see only our tracks and those of our wild neighbours. The camping was more than adequate. Thatch roofs certainly keep the tents cool and habitable. The food was not that of a 5 star restaurant, but we did not want a 5 star restaurant. It was certainly tasty, plentiful and fresh. What more could we ask for? I had some concern [before arriving] regarding the pace and distance of the walks. I am very fit but did not know what to expect. The walks generally lasted some 4 hours and were conducted at an easy pace, with plenty of stops to look at anything that caught the eye, for water or to take photographs.
In short, I must congratulate our guides, Phil and Con, for a fantastic few days. If I were allowed only one word to describe the time in the park, it could only be “Tops!”
-Rob Sykes
Tusker: 23 January, 2009
January 24, 2009 | Leave a Comment
We started this morning with a game drive. We stopped at a point over-looking the Klaserie River where we watched an elephant herd on its way down to the river, feeding and playing in the mud (or as Phil would say “elephant doing elephanty thingies”). Driving further there were big herds of Impala, blue wildebeest, and Zebra on the airstrip. Stopping at another great view spot, with a cigar in hand, we watched four rhino (”doing rhino-y thingies”) feeding. On our way out of the reserve (heading back to Jos Macs where our guests will end their five-day trail), we stopped to view a buffalo herd, just behind camp and two ground hornbills close to their nest. [Con van Eeden, Trails Guide, and Phil Bennett, Backup Guide]
Jo’s Trail Photos: 5 to 19 January, 2009
January 19, 2009 | Leave a Comment
Tusker: 19 January, 2009
January 19, 2009 | Leave a Comment
We watched a hippo in the Klaserie River from the safety of the bridge, whilst on the morning walk.
Three more White Rhinos were also seen through some thick scrub.
Tusker: 18 January, 2009
January 18, 2009 | Leave a Comment
We saw the same elephant bull in musth from Fridays drive on our morning walk. We watched him from behind a bush as he rubbed himself on a tree after showering himself with mud from the nearby mud wallow.
Only a few minutes later we approached two buffalo bulls wallowing in the mud. While we were taking a drink-break, we heard Rhinos running through the bush. We followed up on the tracks and the breaking of branches and came across a very relaxed White Rhino Cow with a young calf. We enjoyed a nice sighting before retreating unnoticed.
On the afternoon drive three White Rhino were spotted at one of the look-out spots, but they weren’t very relaxed and quickly ran into the thick bush. A herd of elephant were drinking at the dam where we stopped for sundowners. Whilst still at the dam, another three White Rhino approached the dam cautiously and began drinking without realizing we were watching.
Tusker: 17 January, 2009
January 17, 2009 | Leave a Comment
On the morning walk we went looking for the lion that we heard during the night. We didn’t find any fresh tracks, but saw plenty of general game, including Impala, Steenbok and Waterbuck.
We had an exciting afternoon drive when we encountered a breeding herd of Elephant along the Klaserie River. One of the larger cows gave us a mock charge as there were young elephant within the herd and female elephants are very protective over their young. She displayed the obvious warning signs of kicking vegetation and throwing sand. She soon stopped when she realized we were not posing a threat to her or the heard. Then something very interesting happened. Another elephant cow came to investigate and was about to give a warning charge when the first cow touched her with her trunk, as if to tell her we were of no threat to them. It was fascinating to watch.
On the night drive back to camp two lioness’ were spotted lying next to the road, but they soon disappeared into the bush where we could no longer see them.
Tusker: 16 January, 2009
January 16, 2009 | Leave a Comment
On our first drive we had a brief sighting of an elephant bull in musth that was very camera-shy, and quickly disappeared into the thicket. Because of the recent rains, there were plenty of waterbuck in the area. We passed a breeding herd of elephants on our way to the airstrip, where we found a nice group of Impala, Blue Wildebeest and Zebra grazing. The lions were roaring all night. [Jo Schoen, Trails Guide]
Tusker: 15 January, 2009
January 15, 2009 | Leave a Comment
Rain this morning. Attempted a drive but got completely soaked. We did, however, see some Ground Hornbills and a very wet African Wildcat. In the afternoon, Hippo were seen in the Klaserie River and a breeding herd of Elephant. [Jo Schoen, Trails Guide]
Tusker: 14 January, 2009
January 14, 2009 | Leave a Comment
The morning walk produced a herd of Buffalo and an unusual sighting of a freshwater Crab crossing the road. Other sightings including Steenbock, Impala and Kudu.
In the afternoon we crossed over to Tusker camp. On our afternoon drive we had a nice sighting of Zebra drinking at the dam. Followed by Giraffe,, and Blue Wildebeest with young at the airstrip. An Elephant bull was feeding in the riverbed and for Rhinos grazing on the banks of the Klaserie River.
Madach: 13 January, 2009
January 13, 2009 | Leave a Comment
We had rain all morning. While sitting in camp enjoying a cup of warm coffee, the morning was brightened up when three large buffalo bulls passed through camp. When the rain eventually stopped enough for a short drive, we saw two elephant bulls feeding and a rare sighting of three Ground Hornbills drying themselves from the mornings rain. On the afternoon drive we watched two elephant lying flat on their sides in a deep sleep…snoring!
Later in the drive we followed a Spotted Hyena as it walked through a mud wallow taking a cool dip away from the afternoon sun. Returning to the dam on the night drive we again saw the Leopard from the previous day, this time interacting with the Hippo that sometimes resides there. The Leopard was showing some curiosity towards the Hippo and edged closer to investigate. As soon as the Hippo turned to confront the Leopard it bolted into the safety of the bush.